Fredericksburg, Virginia

July 3

Once again we managed a pretty early departure, but spent a long day on the road to our second destination. The trolly tour in FDXB, as it is abbreviated locally, surprisingly runs very limited hours, and try as we may, there was no way to catch the last one of the entire weekend, unless perhaps we were to leave at 4  or 5 AM, and  my traveling partner really balked at that suggestion. 

 Sometimes now in his later years he reminds me of a situation I witnessed while resting on a park bench on the evening of our arrival. A young woman approached the intersection with her lovely rather large dog. I was admiring the dog,mostly white, with a large half tawny brown head and body patch, shaggy tail, wondering if he was perhaps part husky, when she decided to turn down the side street. the dog stopped dead! she pulled on the long lead, and he just sat there. she pulled harder, and he literally leaned away from her! she eased, he straightened, she pulled, he leaned, and this went on long enough for me to be laughing hysterically! She finally gave up and crossed the intersection toward us, and he happily trotted across, big doggy smile and tail wagging, and approached us to give a satisfied, if smug, hello! "He's stronger than I am" she explained as she grinned sheepishly and walked by.

We arrived at the Kenmore Inn on the edge of the historic district, and I was totally charmed. A large, beautiful old home built in the late 1700s, with an interior that rivaled many of the historic homes we are so fond of touring, and a long tree shaded front porch with wicker furniture, and of course rocking chairs. I find it sad that homes no longer have front porches, to watch the world go by and visit with neighbors. I think it might help our world to be a kinder place if we returned to that custom. 

 Since we missed the trolly, we set out to explore on foot, and scope out locations for the many festivities that are planned for the fourth. Our great location provided a short walk to the downtown historic district of both hones and shops, as well as the historic sites we planned to see. There were multiple streets making up the downtown, with lots of shops and antique malls, none of which was imlressive to Clem, but left me wishing we had booked a bit more time.

We came upon the Apothecary within a few blocks of the Inn, and we took advantage of it being closed and uncrowned  to go into back and the herb garden .

Purple Cone Flower, or Echinacea, should you have a cold. 

 We had dinner at a local gastropub which was on the recommended lsit from the Inn, as their favorite Italian one was closed on Sunday. Again surprising, since we are more familiar with Monday restaurant closings, but when in Rome... 

The bench we sat on and watched the young gal and her headstrong dog.  No one stopped to chat, but being early  evening, we saw few passers by. 

 The Fourth of July!

Going down for breakfast, we find our hostess is sporting a flag inspired jacket, tables have red and blue napkins with star holders, and patriotoc music is playing softly in the background. After a nice breakfast we headed down to the craft show, but discovered the Hugh Mercer Apothecary open so stopped for a tour. George Washington's Mother Mary lived in a house a block from our Inn, and was treated at the Apothecary by the college educated Dr Mercer, and I was pleased to be able to go in. Our costumed docent was in the period as she explained all the herbs and potions, many of which are still in use today, and she was highly entertainig and sometimes quite amusing, asking if we suffered from various ills and what the Dr may prescribe.  

Huge glass jars beautifully hand painted on the inside, to hold large quantities  of herbs. 

 

An ingenious water purifier made with a large sand stone inserted in the top, water filtrated slowly through and gathered in a bucket below.  She explained doctor uses quite a bit of purified water to mix with the herbs.  

Many of the herbs used are recognizable and still used today. 

She then took us to his office, wherr she described procedures, and even had medical leaches for us to, shall we say, admire? Clem was totally grossed out, and I was totally fascinated! 

Various poultices and tools used to treat patients, including  those to pull a took, minus any pain killers, should it be necessary. Doctor doesn’t trust those new charlatans who come to town calling themselves dentists, and pull your tooth and then leave!

If the doctor was notable to heal a wound, this amputation chair might be necessary!

And of course the imported medical leeches used to bleed you for various ills, and once yearly. He needed to keep many on hand, as they digest your blood very slowly, and can’t be used for a while after. 

 We were invited to see the back room with additional information about Dr Mercer, where I discovered a photo of Johnny Mercer! The name seemed familiar to me, but I had not made the connection to either the composer, or the Mercer House in Savannah, of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil fame, both of which are related. it is interesting how our various travels often become tied together. 

 Our timing was such that we could now stay for the first of three readings of the Declaration of Independence, so we went out and joined the small crowd gathered to listen. The entire experience was so special, it made the trip worthwhile, even if we did nothing else. 

After the reading, a large copy was brought out with  pen and ink, and we were asked if we  wanted to sign. Some hesitated, but I was sure I did!  When I realized it was the year of our lord 1774, and perhaps the men should sign, the docent assured me that women should have a part as well, so I did! 

 On to the craft fair, which we quickly realised was not exactly juried. Music, food, facepainting, and the like filled the water front park, and families had a great time as they gathered to celebrate the holiday. 

Clem got caught up at a booth promoting a local politician, even though he can’t vote, and I walked on with out him. He was still there hem I completed the rest of the booths, and I had to go collect him! Heaven only knows what the long winded discussion was all about! 

Meet Mickey, the Bernedoodle! A striking mix I had never encountered, and I had to stop and say hello. Sweet guy! 

Some of the shops were open and calling to me, so we walked that strip and as it was getting hot, decided to stop for a nice leisurely lunch in the air conditioning. I used the time needed to wait for a table to leave Clem and sneak into one of the Antique malls, and was rewarded by a big bright organized space chock full of fun things to see and stir memories. I love these places!

 After lunch and a bit more browsing, we headed back to the Inn to deposit Clems leftover giant pretzel appetizer from lunch, replenish water and head out to explire in the opposite direction. 

Apparently once a shoe store, now hold another trove of relics!  Clem suffered me a brief look, but I would browse them all if I could! 

 We followed a route to take us to Mary Washington's home, through historic homes,to monuments to Jefferson for religious freedom, and Hugh Mercer, for being a war hero, in addition to the town Doctor, and the Mary Mother of Wahington gravesite and monument. That was the actual inscription , and I couldn't help thinking of a certain prayer!

Mary Washington home, one block up from the Inn, where George’s mother lived. 

What a great porch this one had! 

A tribute to Hugh Mercer, Doctor and War hero. 

A tribute to Jefferson and the quest and declaration of religious freedom. 

 

Located in a beautiful neighborhood of old homes and wide roads, we were disappointed to find the Kenmore Plantation closed. Reported to be a beautiful home inside, it has an imposing brick facade, and was owned by Fielding and Betty Washington Lewis, the sister of George, who was said to have frequented there, as well as his brother's Rising Sun tavern, which we went in search of next. I cant help but think of George frequenting these streets, and how neat it is to follow in those footsteps. i had a similar experience visiting Philadelphia, and seeing the chair Ben Franklin sat in.

The Kenmore , or Kenmore Plantation, home of George Washington’s sister and her husband. 

I just love these little lending libraries people set up in some neighborhoods.  

So many of the homes have the placards on them with dates, but this one was 1727. 

Winding our way back down into town we found the Sunrise Tavern, owned by George  Washingtons brother. 

I discovered this sign several yards from the tavern and adjacent to a  building owned by Lewis, which in addition to more information, shows the close proximity of the various historic sights.  Our location to stay was perfect for exploring, with sites all around us. The name of the inn, however, was created to tie in, and is of no relation, though it was originally constructed in late 1700s, and later added onto. 

 Back once again to the Inn to cool off and rest a bit before fireworks, I heard Clem say well, hello again! He had walked into the lovely study like common area, and had encountered the couple we met arriving as we left earlier. We were soon chatting away, all sharing tales of  past travels, hopes for things to see in the future , and tips about favorites, and were all so engaged, we were surpised to find it was almost 8pm!  What a nice visit we had! So fun to share tales of the road with like minded people! We bid them a fond good evening, and freshened up and  took our lawn chairs and headed out for a 20 minute walk to one of the local parks recommended for viewing, and happened across a small group in a parking lot half way there. After consulting them, we set up there and awaited the show. 

 The folks we joined were friendly, and Clem chatted about golf and joked with the guy, as others joined us to watch what unfortunately proved to be a rather common display, with not an ooh or ahh uttered. Total silence ensued as we all sat and wondered if that was really the finallie, then we struggled our folding chairs back into their bags and walked back for the night.