Winterthur and New Castle , Delaware

The previous  evening while doing a bit of research, I found one of the oddities I am so fond of seeing along the route, in addition to the historic sites, and though I was a bit apprehensive about mentioning it to Clem, I was delighted when he agreed we should go see it!  I had also seen an unusual sculpture as we passed on the way to Strawberry Bank, and it was on the route, so we could see both in the same direction. 

The Museum of Dumb Guy Stuff is only open when the two guys decide to hang the open flag, but we decided to take our chances!  Started by a guy who converts  action figures, who found a like minded friend known for "kit bashing" train layouts, and the two started collaborating on projects in the basement, creating dioramas that give context to their creations. Kitbashing, I found out, is taking a model, and building it the way you want to.  

On the way, we stopped at the Sculpture I had noticed on the way to dinner, and it marked  the Portsmouth Black Heritage Trail.  While the area had been approved as a "Negro Burying Ground",  houses were later built over the site, and this is a memorial to those who were buried there.  A rather sobering note to our mission.  

We found the Museum, and while it was not open, they had installed a diorama out front, presumably to entertain those of us who came seeking, but did not find them open, to help ease the disappointment.  And it did amuse us!  A sign with a mystery you have to solve by studying the clues, and on the back, the solution.  A neighbor lady walking by said "these guys are a riot!" Chatting, we found out she lived around the block, but had a winter home on the west coast of Florida, and said she had the best of both worlds. We had a few chuckles, and seeing no signs of life at the house, headed out for our next destination. 

No Open flag on the house, but we spotted this diorama in front, with the sign below attached to the railing. 

Later that day we arrived to the outskirts of Wilmington Delaware, and a nice  hotel, which renewed my faith in the Hampton Inn chain, thank goodness!  After checking in and freshening up, we headed to nearby Castle Hill to see the historic town which is on the National Register of Historic Places, and have dinner. First settled by the Dutch in 1651, it changed hands repeatedly between the Dutch, Swedish, and British over the years, and the charming town makes many best of lists for one of the most beautiful small towns in America.  A large green, and many blocks of amazingly well preserved predominantly brick buildings, makes it a very pleasant stroll. One reviewer said they felt like they had stepped into Brigadoon!  We had dinner in the 350 year old Jessop’s Tavern on pewter dishes, with real candles lighting lanterns and the candlestick on our table.  I couldn’t help wonder about the fire hazard that presented, even though I enjoyed the authentic ambiance! 

We were surprised to see the predominance of brick buildings here.

Original Ticket Office for  the now defunct New Castle and Frenchtown Railway. One of the first in the nation, the 1832 office marked the eastern terminus of the line. It was moved to its present site in the 1950s.

Tons of geese, and kids enjoying the late afternoon, on this small segment of the huge town green

This stunning ship was a surprise, anchored in the harbor.   It is "a faithful reproduction" of the Kalmar Nyckel, which in 1638 carried the first permanent European settlers  from Sweden, to New Sweden, now Wilmington, Delaware.  Wish we had been able to take a cruise, but it was closed for the night and sold out the next day.  

I love the old well worn passage. 

Jessops Tavern was a private residence when it was built in  1674, then became the barrel making business of Abraham Jessop in 1724.  It reverted once again to private residence, and then finally in 1996 became the tavern, with them adopting the name of the barrel maker.  

The bar is much newer than the 350 year old building, but none the less cozy! 

One of the most prominent categories of spirits during the Colonial area was Belgian beer, and they feature 350 of them!  Clem sampled a few before making his selection. 

The fare is representative of the the European heritage and old -school American dishes.  I had  a GIGANTIC portion of Swedish meatloaf with a sauce flavored with dill and topped with lingonberry jam! The combination of flavors was delicious, but there was no way I could eat all that!  Love the pewter plates! 

The Statehouse, built in 1732 for "Three Lower Counties on the Delaware", as it was then a part of Pennsylvania. It declared its independence from Great Britain as well as Pennsylvania on June 15, 1776.

On the agenda for the next day was Winterthur, the home turned museum built and contrived by Henry F Du Pont, great, great grandson of E I DuPont, founder of the DuPont industries.  An avid collector of Americana, he furnished his home with furniture and collectibles, and later decided to turn his 7 story home into a museum.  He had an incredible sense of style and attention to detail ,and Jacquie Kennedy consulted him , and enlisted him as chair of her committee, when she set out to restore the Whitehouse to its historic origins.  We were fortunate to catch a special exhibit that runs through January shows their relationship and work on the Whitehouse, and was very interesting, even for Clem!  After our house and exhibit tour, he proclaimed it amazing!  The gardens are vast and spectacular, again thanks to HF DuPont, whose first love was gardening.  We took a narrated tram ride through, and while lovely, it would be stunning in the spring with the acres of azaleas and rhododendron in bloom! There was a lovely glass enclosed room for a delicious lunch, which we enjoyed before walking down to the galleries to see the exhibits after our house tour.  Clem was happy there was a shuttle to return us to the visitor center up a steep hill, but on a cooler day, I would have liked to hike a bit on the miles of trails.  Definitely an  amazing place, and I would love to visit again in different seasons.  

Our first glimpse of the house was from the back, where it appears less than its full 7 stories, and includes the lovely greenhouse we were to enter for our tour. 

Enter the atrium on back of house for the tour. 

Grand staircase upon entering, on which Jacquie Kennedy posed for a photo when she visited DuPont. 

Du Pont found this Chinese Wallpaper made in the 1700s, and never installed, and used it to paper one room of the mansion.  It circled the room, with no repeats, and was amazing.  

Among his collections, Martha Washington's china. 

This was just a tiny room off another, yet so richly decorated. 

Painted by American artist John  Trumbull during the Civil War, and given as a gift to Martha Washington. 

The dining room as it appeared when this was a house.  On the sideboard, tankards made by Paul Revere. 

Tankards made by Paul Revere. 

I love the way the china is stored here in a totally flush with the wall cabinet behind beautiful arched doors. 

When Jacquie arrived, DuPont requested a bouquet like this of Lily of the  Valley be made for her, as it represents motherhood, sweetness, and purity, and she had just given birth.  

We had seen this clock, with George Washington in gold, somewhere, but I could not remember where! I will have to do some research!  

I spotted this beautiful collection of Luster Ware in the cabinet, and now having created some pottery myself, and actually making a piece using luster, understood how it was made when the docent explained what it was.  

Apparently a rare occasion on our visit, but we exited the house  from the front entrance. 

Walking down from the house for lunch. 

Lunch was delicious, and the view couldn't have been nicer! 

Back from lunch, we visited the gallery with more collections and exhibits of Americana, plus the special exhibit of Jacquie Kennedy's visit to Winterthur, and her collaboration with DuPont and the rest of her committee on refurnishing the Whitehouse. 

How the Blue Room in the Whitehouse was  decorated with Jacquie's influence. 

And the Green Room, which represented more DuPont's esthetic. 

Jacquie’s hand written notes on presenting her tv broadcasted tour of the renovated  White House, which Clem found especially fascinating. 

Jacquie and HF DuPont during her visit. 

We rounded out our visit to the area with a ride into Wilmington, and found not only a large city center, but very pretty neighborhoods, both new and old, with brick homes on large lots with an abundance of trees.  I asked Clem if we should go knock on Joe Biden’s door and see if he was home on a Sunday afternoon, but he didn’t think that was a good idea.  Spoilsport!  We skipped the opportunity  to view the Hagley Museum and E I DuPont estate, as even I didn’t think we wanted to do two historic home museums  in one day.  Hopefully we can make a return trip in spring for that and the gardens at Winterthur.